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Rewards of Patience

After an unusual long cold spell with cloudy skies and occasional freezing rain or drizzles, the sun finally came out and showed its glorious self. Casting my sight through the windows of the residence of the Australian Consul General in Hong Kong, the breathtaking view of Deep Water Bay unfurled magnificently before me. It is quite unusual for a wine tasting to be held in such a setting and even before it began, I had already concluded that, no matter how the wines would taste, just because of the view alone this tasting was well worth it. Little did I know that the tasting, which was an integral part of the unveiling of the latest (7th) edition of the book The Rewards of Patience edited by Andrew Cailard MW, would herald what turned out to be one of the most impressive tastings that I had ever attended.

Earlier in the year, I had written an article (in Chinese) on how Grange, the now world renowned cuvée from the Penfolds stable, came into being and how initially its continued existence was threatened when those who tasted Grange in its infancy, including Penfolds senior management, did not appreciate it at all. However, patience was rewarded when after a few years' development and maturing in bottle, Grange's true potential was finally revealed and recognised. Having had the privilege of tasting the 1971 and 1976 Grange a couple of times before when they were more than twenty years old, I needed no convincing as how great Grange could develop into. Furthermore, having read three previous editions of The Rewards of Patience, I also knew that this tome was an invaluable reference guide for wine lovers but I was curious as how it could be improved further.

To unveiling the latest edition of this unique tome which is a landmark 310-page text, Peter Gago, the Chief Winemaker of Penfolds was in Hong Kong for the occasion on December 18, 2013. Released every five years, The Rewards of Patience shares the histories of Penfolds past and present and offers comprehensive research of the story on how the iconic Australian winery became a favourite with collectors around the world. Capturing vintage-by-vintage tasting notes and historic timelines, the book meticulously brings together the character and rich heritage of Penfolds renowned winemaking philosophy.

In the latest edition, there are some additional special features: through the palate of 30 independent wine critics and commentators, the Seventh Edition is the first to debut panel tastings held across Beijing, Berlin, New York and at Penfolds spiritual home - Magill Estate Winery, South Australia. Andrew Caillard MW, together with Penfolds winemakers and the 30 panellists, tasted almost 500 wines from across the Penfolds portfolio. From rare Special Bin wines including 1962 Penfolds Bin 60A, which Australian panellist James Halliday AM has called "the single greatest Australian red wine of the twentieth century," to the iconic Grange, where vintages from 1952 to the yet-to-be-released 2009 and 2010 were tasted – showcasing the continuing quality available from not just Penfolds Museum but the latest releases as well. "The Rewards of Patience provides wine lovers with a credible and engaging text in which to celebrate and tell the story of almost 170 years of continuous red, white and fortified winemaking at Penfolds, "says Peter Gago.

To take the unveiling event to its climax, Peter conducted a masterclass when some of Penfolds iconic museum cellar wines were presented, including the 2003 Yattarna Chardonnay, the 1991 & 2002 St. Henri Shiraz, the 2002 & 2004 RWT Barossa Shiraz, the 1991 Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2008 & 1998 Grange and the 1967 Bin 7. Out of all the wines presented, I was most impressed by the 1967 Bin 7 which is a blend of Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon and Kalimna Shiraz. It was my first encounter with this wine and it exhibited smoky, burnt herbs aromas intertwined with black fruits including very ripe raspberries. I just happened to have drunk a bottle of the 1982 Chateau Pichon Lanlande (a 100 Parker Point wine) the night before and the Bin 7 exhibited very similar aromas on the nose. On the palate, rich, luscious and earthy, but had high acidity which made the wine taste very fresh and vibrant in spite of the fact that it was already forty six years old. What a wine was all I could say!

It should also be noted that both the 2008 and 1998 Grange are great wines but for my own taste, still need some further ageing to present their best. This is when The Rewards of Patience comes handy, it gives the 1998 a drinking window of now to 2045 while for the 2008, the drinking window is stated as from 2020 to 2055. There is also a heads-up from Peter Gago -- it is his view that the 2010 Grange, yet to be released, is even better than the 2008 Grange which has been given 100 point by both the Wine Advocate and the Wine Spectator. So collectors and drinkers alike should know where to look for their next addition to their cellars and remember that we break this news to you first.

As a final note, complimentary copies of The Rewards of Patience will be available at selected fine wine stores in Hong Kong with the purchase of selected Penfolds wines.

For further photos of this tasting, please go to:
https://www.facebook.com/OpenwinesLimited/posts/269981789819663
https://www.facebook.com/OpenwinesLimited/posts/269971253154050

Text : Stephen Lau, MBA, AIWS & WSET Certified Educator 25 Dec 2013

Don't Cry for Me Argentina

Her whispery voice emanating from the headphones is so mesmerising and yet so beseeching. Her image with her close-cropped hair, visible through YouTube, seems to add some manhood to her beautiful face yet her expression is full of tenderness. Her seemingly soft voice has a steely resolve; every word uttered from her throat, ascending or descending, demands attention. Who is she? She is Sinead O'Connor. Maybe some people will say her singing technique is not as great as singers with strict classical training, such as Elaine Paige, Sarah Brightman or Julie Covington, but her rendition of the song "Don't Cry for Me Argentina" is the version I like most.

I received similar feelings from the deep purple, almost opaque wine in front of me, one full of violet, prune and blackberry aromas. Underneath the soft, persistent aromas was a hidden sense of wildness. On the palate, the rich fruit flavours were well harmonised with a backbone of acidity and tannins, together with well-balanced spiciness. This fitted exactly the description of "an iron fist in a velvet glove" and its finish was so amazingly long. What was this wine? It was the 2010 Mendel Malbec. Perhaps in Hong Kong, Mendel is not as well-known as other big names from Argentina, but for me it is the best interpretation of Malbec. At a tasting held during the recent Malbec World Day here in Hong Kong, many critics, myself included, considered it the best wine of the show. When you consider, furthermore, that you can get it from Ponti Wine Cellars for just over HK$100, it is really a steal!

Mendel is a partnership between Roberto de la Mota, one of the most famous winemakers from Argentina, and a well-established family there. Under Mendel, there are three main cuvees, the abovementioned Mendel Malbec being one of them. It comes from 100 % Malbec grapes harvested from vines that are 80 years old. The vineyard concerned is situated in the Mendoza region where the diurnal temperature difference is generally 30 degree Celsius, resulting in grapes that ripen slowly while retaining very good acidity at the same time. Thus the wine that comes from these grapes is very concentrated but balanced.

Another cuvee is the Finca Remota, which has a very limited annual production quantity of around 1,000 bottles. The Malbec grapes for this wine come from 70-year-old vines up on a 1,100-meter high mountain in the Uco Valley, which impart particularly fresh and beguiling aromas to the wine. Since half of the wine goes through double oak treatment before blending, it requires a few years' maturing in bottle before consumption, but patience will be well rewarded as this wine has the highest quality.

The last but not least of these cuvees is the Unus, with an annual production quantity of 25,000 bottles and is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. This is a very concentrated wine which combines the structure of Cabernet Sauvignon with the lushness and roundness of Malbec, a very complex but balanced wine indeed.

As Sinead sings, in the last verse of "Don't Cry for Me Argentina":

Have I said too much?
There's nothing more
I can think of to say to you
But all you have to do
Is" take a sip" to know
That every word is true

Text : Stephen Lau, MBA, AIWS & WSET Certified Educator 27 Nov 2013

King Solomon's Treasure Trove

According to the Bible, King Solomon, once the richest man in the land, left behind many treasure troves. In the "kingdom of wine", anyone savvy enough to have collected years ago a few cases of top wines such as Petrus, Lafite, DRC, Leroy and Henri Jayer each year would have accumulated the equivalent of a King Solomon's treasure trove. To start such a collection today would not be an easy task given the expense and demand for such wines. Nevertheless, it is still possible to start a worthy collection -- the question is where to start.

Seeking out wines with the potential to develop into something great yet are being overlooked is a good way to start a collection. One promising country is Germany, as the quality of its wine has come a long way since the Second World War, when the price and demand for its wines dropped markedly. Once able to command far higher prices at auction than Bordeaux in the 19th Century, Riesling and other German wines, especially those made from the Spätburgunder grape variety, are both good buys as prices for wines made from these two grapes still fetch far less than their quality should justifiably command.

The Riesling grape is intrinsically floral and has a distinct fresh elegance. With its high acidity, it is suited for making both dry and sweet wines. Demonstrating Riesling's longevity, it is reported that some wineries in German still have palatable bottles of wine in their cellars from the end of the 19th Century. During my recent visit to Germany, the owner of a winery invited me to blind-taste a Riesling. From the exceptionally attractive colour, aromas, palate and finish, I guessed it was from the 1970's but it was actually a generic Riesling from 1947, which neatly illustrated the amazing quality of this fine grape.

Spätburgunder, originally from France where it is known as Pinot Noir, is the grape from which all the great wines of DRC, Leroy and Henri Jayer are made. Spätburgunder wines have a full and silky taste, with the typical slightly sweet fragrance of red fruits, from strawberry through cherry and raspberries. It is the grape considered by many devoted wine lovers as representing the pinnacle of all varietals. In recent years, the standard of Spätburgunder wines from Germany has improved dramatically and many such wines have won prizes in International blind tasting competitions. One promising estate with great potential is Meyer-Näkel from the Ahr region in Germany, a fifth generation family estate with a holding of 15 hectares. Ahr is Germany's most northern red wine area and most of its vineyards are on south-facing slopes, thus provide the perfect environment for the Spätburgunder grape. Meyer-Näkel is currently run by Werner Näkel, one of the most influential red wine producers in Germany who was selected by the authoritative Gault Millau Guide to German Wines as 2004's Producer of the Year.

I recently had the pleasure of tasting the 2011 Blauschiefer Spätburgunder, a mid price wine (HK$425) with a clear medium ruby colour. It has a very complex nose comprised of the typical slightly sweet fragrance of red fruits intertwined with smoke and vanilla from the oak barrels and combining at the same time very characterful mineriality. Full and rich on the palate with abundant acidity, loads of red fruits and silky ripe tannins harmonised perfectly the slightly high alcohol level to result in a very pleasant finish. This wine pairs well with dishes such as pan-fried duck breast and Peking roast duck and will continue to improve over the next six to seven years. Wine collectors interested in creating a future "treasure trove" should keep an eye out for cuvée Neuenahrer Sonnenberg or wines from other grand cru vineyards.

Another estate with strong potential is Grans-Fassian in the Mosel region with a total holding of 24 hectares which produces mainly white wines. The history of this estate can be traced back to the 17th Century and its current owner Gerhard Grans is one of the most famous young winemaker of the Leiwen area. Most of the vineyards of this estate are situated on south-facing slate slopes at the heart of the Mosel, where the climate is relatively warm such that the Riesling grape can ripen fully.

I recently tasted its 2010 Trittenheimer Riesling Kabinett, an entry level wine (HK$240) with a clear lemon colour. Behind the upfront floral aromas were apricot, peach, honey and that flintiness peculiar to a German Riesling. Soft and refine on the palate, it had such a smooth mouthfeel that it slipped down one's throat like fresh cream. As there is plentiful acidity balanced by sweetness, this wine is suitable for a broad spectrum of cuisines including stir-fried dishes such as asparagus with scallops, crab meat with bean sprouts, or deep-fried dishes such as crab claws. Kabinett wines are meant to be drunk young and not intended for ageing. Collectors can consider the Auslese Goldkapsel or other cuvée of a higher ranking.

The above two wines are available at Schmidt Vinothek. Telephone 3650 0612.

Text : Stephen Lau, MBA, AIWS & WSET Certified Educator 13 Nov 2013

In God We Trust

Years ago I started my corporate life as an auditor and I still remember vividly the motto for a good auditor our manager used to emphasise to us: "In God we trust, all others we check". It is therefore no secret then after my incarnation as a wine writer, I carry this motto through and for every hypothesis in wine drinking that comes my way, I would receive them with a pinch of salt. One of the most intriguing hypotheses that first interested me most was that different wine glasses would give totally different perceptions of the same wine. Having had the auditor motto ingrained in me, I could not help but give it a check. My result is as reported in an earlier article which I wrote some time ago and published in the Ming Pao Daily.

Recently, out of the blue came an invitation from The Glenlivet, a famous single malt distillery, to a dinner pairing their 18 Year Old Single Malt Whisky with different dishes and utilising different types of Riedel glasses. As I had found the regular whisky glass quite adequate and never dreamed of using a Champagne, white wine or red wine glass for Scotch, the idea of serving the same single malt in different types of glasses reminds me of my exercise tasting the same wine with different glasses and kindled my curiosity to try it out. Furthermore, in the past, I had always enjoyed a dram after the meal rather than pairing with different dishes, and this opportunity to pair single malt with different dishes also intrigued me very much. So the invitation was a more than welcomed challenge.

Before I move on to the actual tasting and pairing, may be a few words on the Glenlivet 18 Year Single Malt Whisky is in order. I have long enjoyed an occasionally dram of Scotch and the Glenlivet 18 Year is one of my favourites. Many people new to Scotch have the misconception that the longer the age of the spirit (usually the more expensive), the better it must be. But in fact the different age classifications are in essence different styles and depending on one's preferences, a style with less age may well be the one you enjoy most. In a comparative tasting of different Glenlivet styles a few years back which included the 12 year, 15 year, 18 year, 21 year and the Nadurra (a non-chill-filtered cask strength 16 year old aged in first-filled ex-bourbon cask), the 18 year was my favourite. I liked the 18 year so much that I bought one bottle on the spot. Thus I have one additional reason to want to find out how my favourite single malt would taste in different glasses.

We started the meal with a serving of the Glenlivet 18 with 2 parts chilled sparkling Speyside Glenlivet water in a Riedel Champagne glass. This concoction was paired with Smoked Tuna, Shallot Soubise, Black Garlic and Radish. For those who are familiar with Scotch drinking, it is a well known fact that a splash of water will open up and bring out the aromatics in the Scotch. Furthermore, as the sparkling Speyside Glenlivet water was well chilled, in addition to bringing out the floral element in the 18 year, it also made the Glenlivet 18 to taste even smoother and more elegant than its usual self since the spiciness and the alcoholic punch in the spirit were substantially tuned down. I deliberately did not look at the notes provided by the organiser as I wanted to check it out myself without undue influence. But what did the organiser say? "The combination of sparkling water and the Champagne glass may be surprising to many, but this brings a new dimension to the drinking of the Glenlivet 18 Year Old, highlighting much more the sweetness, fruitiness and vibrancy that are so important to this single malt." Hmm, really?

The second serving of the Glenlivet 18 Year Old came with 1.5 parts chilled Speyside Glenlivet water in a Riedel Riesling glass. This was paired with Game Terrine, Duck Ham, Pistachio and Tangerine Tonic. According to the organiser, using the Riesling glass balanced the acidity and mineral components in the spirit and highlighted the fruits. Thus one could "more easily appreciate the balance of aromas and tastes found in The Glenlivet 18 Year Old such as summer fruits on the nose and softly spiced oranges on the palate." Again I had to differ, as I found the Riesling glass highlight the grassiness of the spirit more than anything else. In fact this was the least favoured glass for me.

The third type of glass used to serve the Glenlivet 18 Year Old was a large-boweled Riedel Burgundy Pinot Noir glass. The Scotch was mixed with 1 part of Speyside Glenlivet water and paired with a Wagyu Beef Rump Brisket, Foie Gras, Croque Madame, Girolle Mushrooms and Bacon Fricassee dish. For me, this glass highlighted the sweet oakiness and the liquorice flavours of the spirit. And this time, my taste seemed to converge with that of the organiser which stated: "its large rim ……. maximizing the sweetness of vanilla oakiness and honey notes."

The final episode unfurled in a Riedel Single Malt Whisky glass and according to the organiser, this glass was developed specially in conjunction with Pernord Ricard, the parent company of The Glenlivet. The Glenlivet 18 Year Old was chilled down to 18 degree and served neat side by side with a regular whisky glass. This was paired with Cigar Scented Dark Chocolate Ganache, Almond Cinnamon Crumbs and Smoked Vanilla Ice Cream. My son who drinks whisky more often than I likes to put his whisky inside the ice compartment of his fridge and I have known for long that low temperature would tune down the kick of the alcohol in a whisky. Notwithstanding this knowledge, tasting The Glenlivet 18 Year Old in the Riedel glass and the regular whisky glass was still eye-opening. In the Riedel glass, it was exceptionally smooth and complex whereas the regular whisky glass, in comparison, seemed to bring forth overwhelmingly the spicy and alcoholic elements to the extent that the single malt tasted like a different spirit. I definitely would vote for the Riedel glass in this instance.

But have the tasting changed my view as to when best to enjoy The Glenlivet 18 Year Old? I am afraid not, as I am more convinced than before that it is best served neat at the end of a meal. The dishes created by the chef/owner of Madame Sixty Ate were exquisite and I was most impressed. But I did not find much synergy in the food and whisky pairing except may be the last dish where the dark chocolate seemed to pair very well with The Glenlivet 18 Year Old. Having said that, the whole dinner was a fun-filled "exercise" and the Riedel single malt whisky glass is a winner for me. But if you look for the extra spicy and alcoholic kicks in your single malt, may be you will come to a different view. Remember the motto "in God we trust, all others we check"? Check it out yourselves!

Text : Stephen Lau, MBA, AIWS & WSET Certified Educator 30 Oct 2013
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